Tim Walker for Vogue Italia, December 2005

Image by Tim Walker for Vogue Italia, December 2005

I've become kind of obsessed with the distress American Apparel has been in recently...I started Manic Trout shortly after it began and those of us in the Indie world thought Dov was doing a pretty cool thing.  The company has made themselves the largest US manufacturer, refusing to go over seas and at the same time paying reasonable wages.  The clothes were cool, the ads were fresh and although the man is a perv, he was accomplishing something pretty rad.

In all of the articles I have recently read, this point had stuck out the most to me however....

American Apparel hit the big time in the early 2000s, ensnaring twenty-somethings with the very same edgy ads and louche tees. But those twenty-somethings are now pushing 40, and they’ve moved on from harem pants and unitards.

It really made me realize how true that statement is...I was in my early 20's when American Apparel first hit the scenes and now in my early 30's the brand and especially their ads, no longer appeal to me.  As I have been immersed in the re branding of Manic Trout this summer it made me think that as a designer:

A. You have to target an age group with all new members every few years
B. You have to evolve for your loyal customer base as they age
C. Create a mix to both bring in a new, younger audience and design styles to evolve with the current customer as they mature.

Obviously the answer is C. and this is exemplified with the old guard of fashion designers. The very young cannot afford couture, but if you make them love you young, by the time they reach maturity...they will be ready to buy.  You however cannot ignore those young lovelies...ready to wear and levels of brands under a designers name usually takes of that.  I think often about this concept and one day will have to separate the trout to design for a broader range of price points.

But for now... I have been setting out to design for those of my own age group and beyond...maturity is starting to show in the pieces I have been working on...and yet I still want to keep the whimsy that Manic Trout is known for. Ah, a tricky place that design world is...the young, the mature, the editorial...there are so many levels to create for!

 

I've been immersing myself in the life of designers recently...I have Seamless on right now while working in my studio.  It has my favorite quote about the industry ever...

"[Fashion] is the only industry where you can be perceived to be successful and not make money because a lot of the success is because of the hype from the press."

Speaking of designers from Seamless...

“I often wonder, sometimes I think the people who buy our clothes live in a parallel universe. Hell, we can’t even afford our clothes.”

- Fashion designer Lazaro Hernandez, of Proenza Schouler, points out that he and Jack McCollough cannot afford their own label’s high-end, pricey clothes.

Fashion.  Gotta love it...

Jun 252010
 
UKVogue042010_01

image from UK Vogue, April 2010

I adore getting all dressed up and going out with the girls.  My girlfriend Zoe and I used to get all gussied up in a similar fashion to these photos and hit the town when we went to Syracuse.  The best part was always getting done up all girly together while giggling at the ridiculous outfits that we put together.

UKVogue042010

image from UK Vogue April 2010

Growing up in house with three sisters and my mom, dress up was a daily occurrence, and still is on those rare occasions when we all go out together.

UKVogue042010_03

image from UK Vogue, April 2010

Those moments of female bonding are the ones I miss the most about living with girls.  I did however begin to recreate them with my annual girls vacations and I loved every minute of them.

UKVogue042010

image from UK Vogue, April 2010

Recently however I have hit the girly dress up jack pot and every other week I get to get all dolled up for Out & About...my studio becomes a flurry of hair products, makeup and pretty clothes and jewelry...its awesome!

 

It seemed like everywhere I looked today I saw this Swimsuit from the Agent Provocateur 2010 Swimwear line.   As we spent at least 30 minutes discussing it in the studio, I figured I'd share with you as well...the Zahra Swimsuit...

Agent Provocateur Zahra Swimsuit

Agent Provocateur Zahra Swimsuit

No doubt this is a stunning piece...but is it too much like lingerie? Is it possible for one of the worlds most renowned lingerie label to make Swimwear that does not look like lingerie? Would you wear it to a resort? Would you balk at the $790 price tag?

Speaking of the price tag...as the rest of the collection is priced from $90-$330, I can only think that this Swimsuit was created purely intending to get attention, and press...and if thats the case, excellent move...its working so who cares if they never sell one.

The same thing occurs in jewelry design as well...I have had necklaces featured in dozens of magazines and blogs and sold maybe a handful, but as they brought many customers to the site for other goodies, its a very successful item in my mind!  I see it as the retail vs. editorial aspect of design and one I try to carefully balance and adhere to.

Does anyone else find this true in their industry?

 

Spring is having one if its pre flower, remind us that its only March days...its raining and freezing cold here right now. I figured I would ignore the actual weather and bring a touch of Spring to you via fashion instead!

Vogue UK January 2010

Mar 162010
 

well...I really only want her clothes...or rather access to Colleen Atwood's Costume skills...seriously though I almost couldn't follow the movie as I was so enraptured by her dresses.  Have you seen Alice In Wonderland yet?  Worth checking out for the clothes alone...but Tim Burton as usual did a phenomenal job and it was great to see the film both on the big screen and in 3d!

The dress Alice wears in the real world is beautiful and all, but it's a period dress from Alice time and as pretty as it is, its nothing we haven't seen before...

After Alice shrinks she fashions this little number out of I think her slip...clever girl that Alice is...

After her encounter with the Mad Hatter, her creation becomes a bit too big again and the talented mad man whips up this creation...

empire waist, flowing skirt and look at that bodice and bow...swoon...

Of course that girl likes her altering substances and very soon grows too big for her wee bits. The red queen takes a liking to her and has her outfitted in a divine confection of tulle that I swear I gasped at when Alice appeared in it in all its 3d glory!!!

look at those raw edges and the light as air effect, so delightful...

I sadly can not locate a good photo of the tunic Alice wears with the white queen, but I loved that she was put into such a different look then the girly dresses...if anyone can find an image of it, please let me know

The piece de resistance was of course the armor...its fantastic! My friend Olesia whom I saw the movie with looked over at me in her goofy 3d glasses and said she had a feeling there was necklace inspiration in that one for me...and she might be right...

Last but not least is that coat, oh that coat!!! I have a thing for coats and this one is divine...I want it.

If you want to learn more about the costumes I found a pretty good site that goes into detail about them...check it out here.

Fashion & Politics

 Fashion  Comments Off
Dec 282009
 

I work very hard at keeping politics out of my business and my blog and this is incredibly hard as I am extremely opinionated politically, but I am also a designer, not a political commentator, so why would you give a rats ass about what I think about politics anyway. I did however just read this article and had to share it and talk a tiny bit about it. Please keep in mind that I as am an avid reader of the Wall Street Journal and that being the only newspaper I ever look at, it took me a few days to hear about this Times article via blog, so its a few days old.

Cathy Horyn in her article Wrapped in Their Identities, brings up some incredible points...like for example...why is the first lady wearing so many non American designers during a time when American Fashion is having a bit of economic crisis? Way to support your country Michele...as Ms. Horyn pointed out, Jackie had to give up Givenchy when Kennedy was in office, where is your loyalty? Its nice that you wear J Crew and all but what about the independent American Designers??? I'll stop there and just say once more that if you have any interest in fashion, or politics for that matter and 5 minutes to spare...check out the article for yourself.

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